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walgreeens and Ilford film

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Post time: 2013-6-5 14:29:29 |Show all posts
Im problem an idiot (both for not a thorough search and simply being new) but i got my roll of ilford 400 devolopted at a walgreens to get back a bunch of clear negatives and a cd with 4 grey images on it. When asked if the kid checked the images, he replied yes... Whatever. So, the thought that my camera may have broken crossed my mind, and of course their's (the kid and his boss), but then there would be something on the film, i think. It was loaded and advancing im sure. So, is it just that i cant get ilford film devolopted at a mini lab or is there surely something wrong with my camera/me (i keep this idea alive because i've only shot a few rolls of film with my camera, which is an old Canon A-1).  sorry if this has infact been directly answered before.            
   

Post time: 2013-6-6 21:13:09 |Show all posts
One thing to remember Dan -- if you are shooting black and white film - no corner lab is going to be able to process it, unless it's a C-41 chromogenic film.  The kid was dead wrong, of course, and Walgreens owes you some film.  However, my advice (too late now) to anyone doing something using a film they have not shot before -- the time to try it out for the first time is not on a one-time only shot.  If you don't have the equipment to process b&w film at home, it won't cost you much to get started, and there are lots of online resources to help you do that.  Grimm & Grimm's Basic Book of Photography is a good resource as well.

Post time: 2013-6-6 19:21:05 |Show all posts
With customers at the print shop it seems calling the newer Pseudo B&W C41 emulsions "Black and White" is the norm; whether their age is 10 or 80. Its like this type of film is called B&W and folks think they are exactly the same thing and the old standby materials. Here I like to call the new stuff "C41 Black and White" or something to the effect to at least give clues on the negative types.

Post time: 2013-6-6 18:18:40 |Show all posts
Generation Gap Alert-- Go back and ask that kid where the Tube tester is  :>)

Post time: 2013-6-6 16:33:47 |Show all posts
This highlights a general problem these days, places employing kids who don't know what they're doing (not the kid's fault necessarily). As suggested above, if you want b+w developed by others then use Ilford XP2, but try processing 'ordinary' b+w film yourself - it's all part of the fun.

Post time: 2013-6-6 15:27:07 |Show all posts
I would like to thank everyone again for all of their help. Im also very strongly contemplating printing this thread and showing this kid that there's more than just the c41 process...  I'll probably continue to use this lab for most practice snapshots (to better understand my camera etc) since its right next to my house. There are a couple camera stores that are on the way to where i go to sailboat racing practice 2-3 days a week about 40mins away where i'll take my more serious films. This all being for colore. Otherwise i'll self devolop my film at school.  There is no way to easily describe how fuming mad i was that all i got back was a bunch of clear negatives and a kid who was probably no older than me telling me that all film is c41 and that there is a very strong possibility i messed up, so i'd like to thank everyone here for helping me out there. The pictures were all from a recent regatta at an away city where i had taken pictures at night under pretty unique lighting from streetlights and moonlight using objects to rest the camera on and 2second timer for steady shots; so i had gone through a fair bit of effort for each shot insuring it was just right. If they had just been snapshots i wouldnt have minded quite as much.   Here is a picture i took this evening, do you think the poor quality is due to them loading the other BW film before?


                        
look at the sky at the upper right.

Post time: 2013-6-6 13:56:40 |Show all posts
Dan, Ilford makes a BW film that _can_ be developed at Walgreens, or any C-41 process house.  It's called XP-2 Super and is a 400ASA speed film that uses neutral density layers rather than color layers to produce a monochrome image when developed and printed as if it were a roll of color film.  This is called a Chromogenic BW film. It's actually quite good but the place you take it to has to understand how to set up the color balance in order to get a neutral tone in the print made to color paper.  There is no orange base like that found in color negative film, it's clear instead and can be printed to BW paper just like silver halide negatives can be. Kodak also makes a Chromogenic BW film for consumers and it's sold at Walgreens, whereas the Ilford isn't.  At least not in my experience.  The Kodak Chromogenic BW has an orange base and while it can be printed to silver halide paper in a home darkroom, it's a bit more difficult. The same issues regarding color balance apply to the Kodak film but it's 'easier' for the operator to understand, sometimes, than with Ilford.  I found a Walgreens near home that was just built and had new equipment and employees who actually had a clue.  They did an excellent job of printing both Kodak and Ilford Chromogenic BW films for me although it took some explaining and practice with the latter before they got it right. You might pick up a roll or two of the Kodak and try it out. Hope this helps, Pete

Post time: 2013-6-6 12:16:04 |Show all posts
Frankly, I think Walgreens owe you a roll of HP5.  They may also owe some of their other customers replacement rolls if the process line was messed up by their error.  They processed your film in the wrong chemistry, thus ruining it.  They should train their operators to know that they shouldn't try processing regular B&W film on their C41 line - and either send it out to a lab that can handle it, or advise you to go elsewhere for processing.  I have no sympathy for them if they had to clean out the processor and load fresh chemistry. In fact, processing B&W film is quite easy to do at home - you don't need a darkroom (just a changing bag to get the film loaded into the tank).  It even becomes quite cheap so long as you shoot enough rolls to mean that your chemicals get used up before they go stale.  It's also very satisfying to do it yourself.  Printing with an enlarger also isn't too difficult at a basic level (although it can develop into an art as you become more skilled at getting the best out of your negatives), but that does require a darkroom.  Chemistry and paper works out cheaper than printing on an inkjet printer, and the result can be higher quality and longer lasting.  You can always scan your own negatives and print them via your computer as well.

Post time: 2013-6-6 10:48:13 |Show all posts
Ouch! Dan - you might want to try some C-41 B&W.  It's pretty decent, and it scans well.  Otherwise find a new lab.  Or have some fun and develop at home.

Post time: 2013-6-6 09:13:24 |Show all posts
So the lab processed real B&W (non C41) in C41; thinking it was pseudo C41 B&W . Yuk.

Post time: 2013-6-6 08:00:00 |Show all posts
"The machine that develops all film" I want one of those. I'll trade my cocker spaniel for it.

Post time: 2013-6-6 06:17:41 |Show all posts
"His machine can process any film and any film are the same"Oooh, My... Don't ever go back to this place again.

Post time: 2013-6-6 05:04:25 |Show all posts
The film was HP-5.  Acording to the kid, his machine can process any film and all films are the same/ c41... In the future, i'll probably learn to devolop film at school (i havent as of yet because im in the jazz band and the schedule doesnt work out, but there's always after school).  i just got back a roll of film i shot off since i made this thread (12 expos.) and aside from being grainy (im a little befudled with all the grain, its only 100speed fugi film) and looking like crap color wise, it appears my camera is working and was not the problem here.  thanks to everyone here for the help and information.

Post time: 2013-6-6 04:01:52 |Show all posts
they were infact informed that it was BW film. I dont know what process they used (nor what they are, im a digital person here, very new to film...) very, very, faintly, i can see seperation of frames on the film. I'll see if i can get my flatbed scanner to work and if it will pick up the frames. So im pretty sure the film was advancing. Im also pretty sure the film was advancing because i checked the rewind knob (especially when i first loaded it) and i could feel it when i rewound it, especially when it disengaged.  There are no marking's of any kind on the film as to the maker/speed etc.  Actually, he only scanned in 5 images of nothing but grey...

Post time: 2013-6-6 02:51:04 |Show all posts
Time was when those who operate film processors would know the difference between normal and chromogenic B&W films.  Was your film XP2, Delta, or HP5?

Post time: 2013-6-6 01:29:42 |Show all posts
If you gave them B&w silver based film they processed it in C41. If you are going to shoot B&W you need to tell them what you are giving them (some mini labs won't even process it or they will send it out).   B&W you can process pretty readily at home, which is what most do these days.

Post time: 2013-6-5 23:56:13 |Show all posts
Correction: Ilford color only available in UK (Not even sure if this is still true) and no E-6.  Sorry about introducing confusion.  If I could delete those posts I would.

Post time: 2013-6-5 22:31:31 |Show all posts
... and they also make a 400 ASA color transparancy (E-6).  Silly me will think more in the future before making assumptions.

Post time: 2013-6-5 21:11:28 |Show all posts
Oh... good question Kelly.  I made an assumption that Iford 400 = color neg.  They do make a 400 speed B&W, don't they ;)

Post time: 2013-6-5 19:15:03 |Show all posts
It's not a problem of film/lab compatability - C-41 is C-41 basically. Check the film markings on the edge of the film.  If it was processed correctly there will be bar codes and flm name information.  Look at your negs (including the leader) -- is there anything at all?  Do you see any frame lines at all... or is it really just a strip of clear film?  If there is one black frame at the very beginning (on the leader) it is possible that you misloaded the film and the film wasn't advancing.  Do you recall actually seeing the rewind know moving when you advanced the film?  When you load film it is a good practice to watch the rewind knob to make sure the film is really being transported through the camera. I'm laughing about your post but it is a nervous laugh -- they actually burned o CD of blank frames????
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