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Author: sdxh0506

help with Spyder Print4, calibration and paper profiles

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Post time: 2015-7-11 20:34:25 |Show all posts
O.k. The colors are not widely off, they all correspond with the pure ones but they're much, much less saturated. Sounds familiar?
Now trying to get a print to match my (calibrated) screen with "advanced editing" (where "advanced" seems quite the overstatement) and it's a mess. Clouds that are yellow / white in the setting sun turn an ugly orange / magenta in print.

Post time: 2015-7-11 19:07:42 |Show all posts
The white reading is just the initial calibration step done with the probe still in its dock before the color reading begins, and you can tell if its been done correctly if the color patch reading is close to the official color. But if the color is wildly off then you should redo the white calibration step.

Post time: 2015-7-11 17:54:29 |Show all posts
- But how do you know the white reading is to be improved upon? Software just says "allright, on to the next step."

Post time: 2015-7-11 16:21:46 |Show all posts
o.k., thanks i'll give it a go! In strip measuring mode it doesn't give much confidence to see the red measuring light peeping out from underneath the spectro. Presumably the measurement could be contaminated by ambient light ?

Post time: 2015-7-11 15:01:21 |Show all posts
I have the Spyder3 Studio kit and initially also had problems with getting a good profile. Called them for suggestions and was told two things which made all the difference:
1. use the EZ High Quality Target Plus Grays, which prints on four sheets, not two. This gives you much better tonalities, as the printer uses black ink for color shading and so needs those gray readings to fine tune it.
2. don't use the default, supposedly fast, "strip" way of reading your targets as this way is prone to mistakes, which will throw off your profile. When the target pages come up on the screen, at the bottom right corner make sure to choose "patch" reading and not "strip." This will set the software to accept each color patch reading separately one at a time and at your own pace so you don't make any mistakes. Also make sure your sound is turned on so you can hear the "click" of a successful reading, and that the initial "white" reading, which the software requests before the color patches are read, is good because if it's not it will throw off your entire reading.
Doing these two steps enables me to make better profiles than any of the canned profiles I can download from the manufactures web site.
Good luck.

Post time: 2015-7-11 13:10:34 |Show all posts
O.k., getting there, 3 steps forward 2 backward. Three questions. Printing "Media Setting Check.tif" from LR3 gives the same results as from Preview: passable but not great: a couple of patches are clearly wrong, especially in the upper left corners of the 6 upper quadrants (/"ninths"?). Which is exactly where I'd need the exact tone of shadow-dark-green in my prints.
So this will be my first question: how to fine-tune these little glitches? Is there a certain order in which you best go about fiddling with the sliders in the "Advanced editing" module of SpyderPrint? (- out of personal interest, question 1b: how many "off-" patches do you consider passable?)
Secondly, printing from Photoshop PS3: weird artefacts, whole swathes of patches mixed up. As far as I can tell, exactly the same settings as in LR. It's a PS copy a friend gave me, I'm not too sure about its legality. Could that be the cause? (Another PS copy, PS5 of which I'm certain it's an illegal one, just crashes every time I hit "print"!)
Third question: in the print dialog, drop down color matching, why are the radio boxes where you choose between Color synch and Epson Color controls, greyed out when reached from LR and PS and not in Preview? Should they be greyed out?
many thanks in advance!

Post time: 2015-7-11 12:04:39 |Show all posts
yes, targets must be printed w/ NO COLOR MANAGEMENT.

Post time: 2015-7-11 10:47:17 |Show all posts
Thanks for your answer. So simple! just too much common sense for my decaying brains  Will give it a go tomorrow first thing, looking forward to the results!

Post time: 2015-7-11 09:04:22 |Show all posts
Your big mistake is right at the start.
You must print the measuring targets with no profile at all. You are double profiling which will give weird & usually awful results.
Use the Spyder Print software to print the targets from & make sure all colour management is turned off in the printer driver before you actually print.
You should then measure the targets (I leave mine overnight to properly dry, enabling the inks to stabilise) & save the profile you have created. Then set the profile in your print software & leave the printer set to no colour management (very important, again to avoid double profiling).
You should then be able to print images that are very close to what you see on your screen, assuming you have calibrated it.
I have been using my Studio 3 kit for over 5 years & have always been more than satisfied with the results.
Good luck!
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