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Problems with Presstek Freedom Pro plates

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Post time: 2013-4-10 18:30:30 |Show all posts
We run Presstek Freedom Pro plates and they are horrible. They need to much water to run wich almost makes the ink emulsify in the rollers. I have tried many different fountain solutions and mixes nothing works. I have the rollers set right I know this and have tried different roller settings lighter heavier nothing makes a difference. Now I have so much etch in the water to bring down the water speeds I think the plates start blinding maybe on coated stock. Like the ink is washing out but you cant turn down the waters or it will scum or something evetually. Basically they are the worst plates I have ran . I am wondering if anyone knows of another plate that could be used on the Presstek Vector FL52 thermal imagesetter?

Post time: 2016-9-23 13:58:26 |Show all posts
I have all tech document for Presstek
low prices all In PDF.
ercupa@netscape.net

Post time: 2013-4-11 05:15:16 |Show all posts
Well I am going to try the Gans Ultra FS I think it is that Western suggested. If anyone else is running the Freedom Pro plate and is using something that works I would love to hear about it. I have checked with other plate manufacturers and nobody else makes a plate the will work on the Vector except Presstek. So I am stuck!

Post time: 2013-4-11 03:34:17 |Show all posts

I run a Heidelberg SM52 which is similar to the GTO. I mainly have problems on any coated stock. Because I have so much etch in the water which is almost blinding the plate. But I have it in there to bring down the water speeds and to keep the knock outs in solids clean because I run alot of solids . Are you running the Freedom Pro plate? I assume you are. I will email you also.

Post time: 2013-4-11 01:55:07 |Show all posts
I had the same issues as you when I first started using the plate 5 years ago. We found the plate likes Soy based ink and certain fountain solutions. We found certain fountain solutions would blind the plates after only a few thousand impressions.  I am guessing your problem is mainly with yellow and magenta.  We found the plate would begin to loose the balance of ink vs water and start to plug and ghost tone and we had to turn up the water to get it to work and that started a whole different problem.  We use Gans Sumo soy ink and also had good results with Zipset.  For fountain we use Gans Ultra FX.  Presstek also sells a fountian solution that works well but I am drawing a blank on the name but it has the same chemical breakdown as the Ultra FX.  With Soy based inks you press roller care is very important as the inks can easily become comtaminated. We use the Gans Rollers wash and bought a good metering roller cleaner.  When we clean up we make sure to wipe the dampening system with  metering roller clean to prevent restart issues.  Your blanket wash is also very important.  I run a GTOV and when hanging a plate the blanket make contact with the plate.  We found that residue from the blanket wash would stain the plate and nothing we did would fix it.  We went to a fast drying blanket wash from Gans tand the problem was solved. With the soy inks we can leave the ink in over night and at one point last year the press stayed in process for 45 straight days.  Here si an email address to reach me if you still have problems westernscottw@aol.com.  I have run presses for over 30 years and the hardest thing to over come was what used to work in the old days would not work now.  If you have acces to Gans products send me an email and I will give a list of the items to use. Use all the itmes not just some and i think your problems will go away.  I run all day long with no problems.

Post time: 2013-4-11 00:38:25 |Show all posts
I believe we have a personell issue with our regional Fuji reps . The service we received from them was far below our standards so we stayed with Kodak rather than try Fujis new version . Made no chemistry adjustments for the Kodaks at all . Just hang them and run .

Post time: 2013-4-10 22:59:40 |Show all posts
Fuji Pro T plates were discontinued in 2010 or 11 and a newer product which developed easier on press was introduced. People with small presses that had limited dampening or integrated dampening systems such as the Varn Compaq had trouble developing the Pro T plate. Usually a pre wet of the plates eliminated all of the problems. Training was required as well as a review of chemicals used at the work station was required by Fuji technical staff on every press to use those processless plates. The difficulties usually were caused by a lack of communication in rolling up the plates. Some people ran them through a processor before hand with fountain solution and that solved all the problems, Fuji introduced in 2010 the next generation which were much more user friendly to small presses such as Duplicators and other presses with limited printing capability. Some printers had trouble with the Kodak plates as well. Much of this is dependent on press and pressmen characteristics as well as stock being printed which in turn affect the dampening system.

Post time: 2013-4-10 21:03:59 |Show all posts
Kodak and Fuji both manufacture plates for thermal imagesetters, however Presstek makes their own imagesetters and some of them will not work with anyone elses plates. This is why it is important to buy an independent manufacturer's platesetter such as Screen made products. I believe Agfa also has a product. These would all have to be checked. I have had a lot of success with the Fuji plate unlike another respondent. Pro T from Fuji were old technology and depending on the dampening system, certain presses with limited dampners did not respond well to that technology. Check with your Fuji tech rep who can help you determine what is best for you. They will not try to sell you something that doesnt work.

Post time: 2013-4-10 19:58:25 |Show all posts
We run the Kodak thermal direct plates on our Gto with no issues . I had issues like you describe with Fuji pro t plates
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