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Canon Pro-100 Ink run through question

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Post time: 2015-7-14 10:59:59 |Show all posts
Just purchased the dye-based Canon Pixma Pro-100 and am considering using third-party inks for non-critical snapshot prints on cheap paper. But I also want to use the OEM inks for more important stuff. My question: after swapping the third-party inks in the printer for the Canon OEM inks, how long does the cheaper ink stay in the lines and print head? Let’s say I’m outputting 12x18-inch prints.
Thanks
7#
Invalid floor, the posts have been deleted

Post time: 2015-7-14 17:36:46 |Show all posts
Thanks to each of you for your thoughtful answers. While I'm picky about color accuracy, for non-OEM ink I'm willing to adjust my expectations. I'm even open to the possibility that I'd prefer the colors on the cheap. . .until they fade. . .

Post time: 2015-7-14 16:04:05 |Show all posts
Turbguy1 wrote:
In a cautionary view, IT IS RECOMMENDED TO AVOID REFILLING THE EXISTING CLI-42 YELLOW CART WITH NON-OEM INK!
There has been a demonstrated non-compatibility with OEM residual ink in the cart and refilling, without extensive flushing/purging of the CLI-42 cart.
It has been proven that it is best to use a CLI-8 cart, with the chip from the yellow CLI-42 switched to it, be used for refilling.
The issue is gelling of the refill, which clogs the inlet screen on the printhead with a very persistent deposit.
-- hide signature --Wayne
See more at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/turbguy/
Yes, I should have mentioned that since I think I was probably the first to experience this on my PRO-100. I reported it to PC and lucky for me was able to clear out the head by dripping Windex into the Yellow Channel from the top.
It took about 3 refills of the yellow cart for the gelling reaction to take place. The ratio between OEM yellow and PC yellow has to be just right.
That fact that I has been documented, does not mean that it will occur every single time one mixes OEM Yellow and PC Yellow.
Thought the best and safest route is to simply begin with a CLI-8 flushed cart and switch the chips, I have manages to correctly flush the OEM carts so they no longer react negatively with PC yellow.
But I would still recommend simply taking the safe route and use the CLI-8 cart instead.
Joe
-- hide signature --MY VIDEO CHANNEL. PRINTING and personal videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/cheo1949

Post time: 2015-7-14 14:54:41 |Show all posts
In a cautionary view, IT IS RECOMMENDED TO AVOID REFILLING THE EXISTING CLI-42 YELLOW CART WITH NON-OEM INK!
There has been a demonstrated non-compatibility with OEM residual ink in the cart and refilling, without extensive flushing/purging of the CLI-42 cart.
It has been proven that it is best to use a CLI-8 cart, with the chip from the yellow CLI-42 switched to it, be used for refilling.
The issue is gelling of the refill, which clogs the inlet screen on the printhead with a very persistent deposit.
-- hide signature --Wayne
See more at:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/turbguy/

Post time: 2015-7-14 13:10:15 |Show all posts
l_d_allan wrote:
MiguelD wrote:
Just purchased the dye-based Canon Pixma Pro-100 and am considering using third-party inks for non-critical snapshot prints on cheap paper. But I also want to use the OEM inks for more important stuff. My question: after swapping the third-party inks in the printer for the Canon OEM inks, how long does the cheaper ink stay in the lines and print head? Let’s say I’m outputting 12x18-inch prints.
Here's my experience ... about the equivalent of 3 letter size prints, if there is plenty of color, and not much light areas. You should be ok by the equivalent of the 4th letter size print.
TMI?
I've used my X-Rite i1iSis to see how 1000+ patch test prints "drift" as the ink is changed from OEM to non-OEM and back to OEM. When you change cartridges, a cleaning is involved, which uses some ink. The 2nd patch test print is definitely different than the first, but it has pretty well reached stability by the 4th print.
I use a test print of thin vertical stripes, with the stripes attempting to match the solid colors of the printer. That's non-trivial with any color, but especially PhotoCyan, PhotoMagenta, Gray, and Light-Gray on the Pro-100.
Maybe 5 or 6 of the OBP test print, as there are light areas which use less ink.
People claim that the non-oem ink is a very close match to the oem ink ... but that hasn't been my observation from i1iSis measurements, but it depends on what your expectations are. If accurate, consistent flesh tones don't matter all that much, then there may be little or need to "blend" from oem ink to non-oem ink to oem ink. Or not?
Note that the Pro-100 doesn't really have "ink lines". The ink goes from the outlet port of the CLI-42 cartridge, thru the mesh inlet filters of the print-head, into the internal pre-fire buffer chambers of the print-head, and then out the nozzles.
Ditto!
To the OP, there aren't any "Lines" to speak of on the PRO-100
Only printers with stationary carts such as the PRO-1 actually feed ink to the print head via LINES.
With the PRO-100 you will be switching full sets of carts between your two inks.
I will likely take several full prints to completely assure that you are actually using say OEM inks or PC inks. And by the way, once the PC inks are properly profiled, your results will be quite excellent.
Longevity of the PC inks has not been determined yet. But just remember that DYE will never outlast PIGMENT, fade wise, regardless of who makes it.
Joe
-- hide signature --MY VIDEO CHANNEL. PRINTING and personal videos.
https://www.youtube.com/user/cheo1949

Post time: 2015-7-14 12:04:13 |Show all posts
MiguelD wrote:
Just purchased the dye-based Canon Pixma Pro-100 and am considering using third-party inks for non-critical snapshot prints on cheap paper. But I also want to use the OEM inks for more important stuff. My question: after swapping the third-party inks in the printer for the Canon OEM inks, how long does the cheaper ink stay in the lines and print head? Let’s say I’m outputting 12x18-inch prints.
Here's my experience ... about the equivalent of 3 letter size prints, if there is plenty of color, and not much light areas. You should be ok by the equivalent of the 4th letter size print.
TMI?
I've used my X-Rite i1iSis to see how 1000+ patch test prints "drift" as the ink is changed from OEM to non-OEM and back to OEM. When you change cartridges, a cleaning is involved, which uses some ink. The 2nd patch test print is definitely different than the first, but it has pretty well reached stability by the 4th print.
I use a test print of thin vertical stripes, with the stripes attempting to match the solid colors of the printer. That's non-trivial with any color, but especially PhotoCyan, PhotoMagenta, Gray, and Light-Gray on the Pro-100.
Maybe 5 or 6 of the OBP test print, as there are light areas which use less ink.
People claim that the non-oem ink is a very close match to the oem ink ... but that hasn't been my observation from i1iSis measurements, but it depends on what your expectations are. If accurate, consistent flesh tones don't matter all that much, then there may be little or need to "blend" from oem ink to non-oem ink to oem ink. Or not?
Note that the Pro-100 doesn't really have "ink lines". The ink goes from the outlet port of the CLI-42 cartridge, thru the mesh inlet filters of the print-head, into the internal pre-fire buffer chambers of the print-head, and then out the nozzles.
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